What I Learned from doing Gold Leaf Portraits

Gold leaf portraits have been a trend that comes and goes, with a LOT of photographers trying it, but only a few successfully pulling it off. There is a big learning curve to this style of portraits, and after trying it myself, I am here to share my thoughts on the entire process!

SUPPLIES USED:

THINGS TO CONSIDER…

The client, a good friend of mine, Alisa, bathed and groomed her horse prior to my assistant and I getting there. When we arrived, we looked at the lighting available between her barn, garage and run in shed, needed flat lighting, level but not slippery footing for shoes, and a wide enough doorway that her horse could stand comfortably in. For that time of day, none of those options were ideal, but Alisa did have a cement pad outside of her basement door, that offered flat lighting, level footing, and some grit to it.

Before we could begin the process of applying the gold leaf to her horse’s head and neck, we discussed what color we wanted to work with - Gold or Silver, agreeing that due to her horse being primarily gray, that the silver wouldn’t make the POP effect we wanted. We did not take into consideration his fleabitten speckles. These speckles added texture to his coat, making the gold leaf’s texture less of a visual impact.

We then discussed where we wanted to apply it, taking into consideration the contours of bone and muscle, choosing areas that would highlight his best features and accent his Arabian dished nose and arched neck.

My assistant prepped the small gold leaf pieces - which we learned would easily blow away in the wind. She resorted to holding the sheet for us to pull a small piece off of when ready. She was also holding the tub of vaseline close to us so it was easier and quicker to apply it.

Alisa’s horse is wonderfully trained to stand quietly, so she continued to hold the lead while to apply the vaseline and gold leaf to his face. I was struggling trying to apply anything to the horse’s thicker neck hair, without making a complete mess, or getting vaseline and gold leaf all over myself.

METHODS USED…

  • Apply a small bit of vaseline to the horse, then add a small gold piece to the spot of vaseline.

  • Apply vaseline to the brush, grab a bit of gold leaf on the tip, and then try to roll it onto the horse’s coat.

  • Someone applied the vaseline with a brush, while someone else applies a larger piece of gold leaf to see if it would stick/rip off.

  • Applying vaseline and then dumping a bunch of small pieces over the neck, hoping they would stick as they landed on the neck.

  • Eliminating myself as I was covered in vaseline and making everything sticky and greasy! I switched to photographing the BTS photos instead.

Along the way, we also learned that because the halter had a bit of movement to them, any gold we placed near the halter was getting smudged off, making more of a mess.

And we also learned quickly that shorter face hair was MUCH easier to apply the gold leaf to then the longer neck hair, agreeing that a clipped horse would be better, and a wooly horse would be a NIGHTMARE!

Another consideration we learned, was that if we needed to photograph the horse afterward without gold leaf (ex. with the owner or at liberty), we would either ONLY be able to use the opposite side of the horse to hide the vaseline, or we would have to bathe and dry the horse before continuing photos, OR I would have to spend forever editing it off from the horse in photoshop….

The entire time, I am trying to think of an easier, quicker, less messy was of applying this. I HATE wasting time, especially if there is a better route.

Alisa is a wonderful friend, and doing this project with her was an excuse to spend time with her. However - I kept thinking about how time consuming this would be with a client and a horse who didn’t have superior ground manners and patience. I think some of my clients would be able to follow pre-written directions and choose pleasing areas to add the gold leaf to, BEFORE I arrived to photograph the horse. But I would see it being an absolute disaster too, arriving to a frustrated client, and a pissed off horse who needed a bath and time to decompress. … Which means I would have to add at least 45 minutes, if not 60+ minutes to the sessions, where I would show up with the supplies and apply the gold leaf myself. … and then how much more money would I have to add to the session fee to cover my time applying this … but also cleaning it up in photoshop… …. …. is it worth it?

After 30-40 minutes we decided that what we had gotten to stick to the horse, was what we were going to have to work with. The horse was starting to get impatient and we knew that if we gave him a break in his stall, the sawdust and hay would end up sticking to him, making it a HUGE mess and unusable, so opted to change to photographing, and used the 10 minutes we had left of the horse’s patience to create a few portraits.

While editing, I quickly learned a few more things …

  • The color of the background can make a big difference on how the color of the gold leaf POPs. I tried both a black background and white background, as well as saturating the gold color. The horse POPS from a black background more, and I liked an off white background over a stark white background as another option.

  • I had SO MUCH vaseline to remove from the horse. As time went on, the vaseline spread to the surrounding hairs, making larger wet spots, which was VERY time consuming to remove around each piece of gold leaf.

  • The amount of gold leaf we added - took forever - and did not make the impact we wanted. We needed 3-5x more gold leaf over the areas we applied it to, and even then, I felt it was incomplete ending before the withers.

At the end of the day, I changed tactics and went searching for gold leaf photoshop brushes, and found a set on creative market, 24K Metallic Gold Brush Gold Effects. I downloaded them, spent an hour familiarizing myself with the different brushes and the brush settings, before applying them to my images.

It was the answer I was looking for!!!

Holy Moly was using photoshop brushes WAAAYYY easier than what we did! I could pick and choose the size of the gold flakes, place them exactly where I wanted them, and add as much or as little as desired.

  • NO Mess!

  • NO extra time needed before photographing!

  • Ability to photograph the horse afterward without bathing them!

  • Ability to apply gold leaf to any portraits, providing the clients an option to enjoy the image with or without the embellishments!

  • BONUS - In photoshop, I can change the gold to whatever color the client desired.

After learning this new trick, I threw away all of my supplies, and added the photoshop brush trick to my tool belt. 1000% worth it. The images above and below are examples of our time, effort, and mess of a job applying it ourselves, vs the image that shows the results of the photoshop brushes applied.

WAS IT WORTH IT?

Yes, because even though the efforts could be considered a “failure,” I gained valuable knowledge on the process, what works and what does not work. I thought outside of the box, and gained new photoshop tools and skillsets that I am confident offering my clients going forward. And I also got to enjoy a memorable evening with my friends - despite being a sticky mess.

Essentials for My Photography Business

WHAT’S IN MY CAMERA BAG…

  • 2 Canon R5 Camera Bodies (I always have a back up body, just in case anything happens to my main body.)

  • 2 Canon Adapters for EF Lenses

  • 135mm Sigma Art (this is my main lens for both horse and dog portraits) 

  • 70-200 RF 70-200mm f/2.8 (this is my main lens for all action shots)

  • 85mm Sigma Art (backup option to my 135mm, but hardly used)

  • 50mm Sigma Art (occasionally used for dog shoots for client requesting wider angle shots)

  • 35mm Sigma Art (used to fine art product shots)

  • Four Canon Batteries (I can go a full day on 2-3 batteries, but I always like to have backups!)

  • 16 SANDISK 128GB 200/mbs SD Cards 

  • Kiorafoto Card Holder

  • 3 Lens Cloths

  • Ulanzi Hot Shoe Phone Mount 

  • Meta Glasses 

  • Lowepro ProTactic camera bag

THE OFFICE ESSENTIALS…

  • 24” iMac (This is my office computer.)

  • 14” MacBook Pro (This is my main computer that I take when I travel or want to work outside of the office.)

  • Lacie 5tb Rugged Hard Drives (I usually will go through 2-3 of these in 1 year.)

  • Beats Headphones (for when I need music, podcasts, or audiobooks when I edit.)

  • Loop earplugs (for when travel gets to be too loud and it’s difficult for me to focus)

EDITING SOFTWARE…

  • Adobe Photoshop + Camera Raw (All of my editing is done through these programs.)

  • Adobe Bridge (I use this for file management and organization)

  • Screenshot (I use this for recording edits for reels and educational tutorials)


THE BUSINESS ORGANIZATION…

  • HoneyBook (My CRM system where I keep my schedule, email contracts and invoices, and correspond with clients. Here’s my referral link if you’re interested in Honeybook! https://share.honeybook.com/jesse89745)

  • Pixieset (This is where my online galleries are delivered to clients, and where they can make fine art purchases.)

  • Squarespace (My website - what you’re on now!)

Photographing Dogs in Woodland Locations

I will be the first to admit.... Woodland locations are my weak point. Read below to hear why…

SCHEDULING…

  • Scheduling earlier in the day, will give you more light in darker forests, but in lighter forests you'll end up with spotty lighting.

  • Scheduling for a location with flat elevation means you'll have light longer, but if there is a difference in elevation, you may lose the light 2+ hours earlier than expected.

  • Scheduling a darker dog, means shooting an hour sooner so you can capture details without trashing your photos with grainy ISO, where a lighter dog, you may want to do later in the day, so they POP from a darker background.

  • Portraits don't require as much light, because the dog isn't moving, or at least not moving FAST, but with actions shots - you need MORE light for a higher shutter to stop the action.

  • Also... do your trails run in the direction you want for lighting? Is this a trail you need to schedule for a morning or evening shoot to achieve that lighting for those specific spots in the trail you want to use?

TRAIL DIFFICULTIES & TEXTURES…

  • Wild forests are going to have a lot of clutter from fallen trees, branches, and may have smaller vegetation that smaller dogs drown in.

  • Maintained trails in state parks may offer more options for cleaner backgrounds, but have more foot traffic, and the possibility of hikers with off leash dogs that don't have manners or a recall.

  • Woodland trails often require more hiking to get to the good spots, which means more time for water breaks and rests, so the dog can close it's mouth comfortably for photos.

  • But - an older dog, or one with physical limitations, may not do well at a woodland location, especially if it has elevation changes.

  • Clients too - Do they have a physical limitation we need to be respectful of? A narrow trail with multiple high energy dogs, and a client with physical limitations, is an accident waiting to happen...

COLOR IS A DECIDING FACTOR…

Does your client want a vibrant POP of greens, which you would get in a hardwood forest, or do they want the subtle grays and browns, which would be found in a softwood forest? How is that going to effect the coloring of the dog's coat, and the lighting - which is VERY different in a softwood vs hardwood forests.

WEATHER COMPLICATIONS…

  • A woodland location after a rain is going to be wet, making EVERY piece of dirt, pine needle, leaves, etc., stick to the dog's coat, which means hauling grooming tools and towels with you.

  • A short haired, single coat dog would give you more grace on a wet trail, but anything with a longer or double coat is going to be a disaster. This means more editing, and potentially a much shorter shoot, because when the dog is wet ... well, you can't dry a dog in photoshop....

There's a lot bouncing around in my head that I have to consider... but instead of shying away from the challenge, I am doing my best to lean into it, try new things, learn from mistakes, and hone the skills until I am confident and comfortable with woodland photoshoots.

So bare with me, and if I talk to myself or seem a bit lost on the trail during our shoot, just know it's because I'm calculating a LOT in my head, but it will be beneficial for you and your resulting photos! Promise.


CANINE PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOPS

Want to level up your canine photography, client experience, and overall sales? I offer three day workshops for a limited number of canine photographers, in Muskegon, Michigan. These workshops are PACKED with 10 hour days of education split between a classroom setting, photographing with dogs models in a variety of locations.

EDIT LIKE A PROFESSIONAL!

Want to learn how to use Adobe Photoshop to edit your dog photos like a professional? Downloadable, step by step editing tutorials are now available for you to learn J.Klein Photos exact thought and editing process behind her signature style!

Travel Tips from an Equine + Canine Photographer

Being a traveling photographer has its perks and downfalls. I never expected to be traveling throughout the country on a monthly basis, and while it’s hard to be away from home, I’ve learned some valuable tips and tricks to making each photography trip a success!

I wanted to share 15 travel tips with you, I hopes of making your traveling dreams possible too!

Direct flights are the best option. The airlines have the power to change your connecting flight times, which can easily turn a 2 hour travel time into a 24+ hour travel time, which could affect your photoshoot schedule with clients.

Some days are cheaper than others to fly on, so double check prices on different days of the week.

If you prefer flying through a specific airline, I would recommend looking into their membership or credit card perks. This could grant you ability to fly your assistant for free, have private room access in airports, discounts on hotels and/or rental cars, and more!

If you aren’t particular to one airline, I would recommend looking into credit cards offered through banks, such as chase or capitol one, to see what travel benefits for your needs best.

Carry on your camera gear. I’ve heard horror stories of photographers checking camera gear iI’m and having it completely destroyed or lost/stolen. 

If you plan to have it in the overhead bin, paying extra to have early boarding or in zones 1-3 boarding, provides you with overhead space. If you’re in zone 5-7, and the overhead bins are full, you will have to check your bags as luggage.

I keep all essentials in my camera bag. This includes two camera bodies, two + lenses, four fully charged batteries, a battery charger, 14 sd cards (64-138gb ea.), my hard drive, laptop, charging cords for laptop and phone, beats and extra cash/second id. 

I always have two camera bodies and at least two lenses at all times in my bag. If for some reason, a body or lens gets dropped or malfunctions, you can continue working with your backup and continue photographing and providing a seamless experience for clients, attending to your broken gear after returning home from your trip. 

When/if leaving your camera bag in the car, take hard drive and sd cards with you. There’s nothing worse than having your car broken into and your bag stolen. Yes, gear can be replaced, but telling a client you lost their images and may or may not be able to revisit and reshoot, isn’t the professional experience you want to provide.

Book hotels when the weekly weather report is posted OR pay extra for refundable cancellations. When I travel, I will typically cover a 6 hour radius of the airport I fly in/out of, and if weather changes, my schedule will change too. It’s not fun having to pay for a hotel room 5 hours away, and a new hotel room closer, when you have to adjust plans to work around weather.

Plan in extra time. If you need to change dates/times for weather, or if clients and their animals need more time, or if you need a break to recharge, it’s better to have that option than have to cancel a client. Extra time is great for when you’re traveling around the holidays, or having to travel around a large event that causes traffic or road closures.

If you can pay extra for travel insurance, esp on flights, hotel and rental car, you may be able to receive a refund or credit toward another trip.

Have all of the important addresses, client phone numbers and photoshoot details accessible offline in case you don’t have cell service, and available for your assistant and your emergency contacts. Ive ended up having to backtrack during travel to find cell service, in order to contact the client or the photoshoot location, which cut into client time and wasn’t as professional of an experience as I wanted to provide.

I include in my important addresses local grocery stores and coffee shops. It’s cheaper(and healthier) to buy food from a grocery store than eating out 3X a day. Many hotels offer suits, where you have a kitchenette to cook in!

Life app - I have the life app, which allows both my husband, my emergency contacts, and my travel assistant to keep track of my location. This is an extra step of safety, but traveling and working on private properties with first time clients can be sketchy, and it’s better to be safe than sorry. 

If the property makes us nervous pulling in, I do send my husband a photo of license plates parked at the location. 

When booking photoshoots for sunrise or sunset, keep in mind if you’re going to have elevation changes. Sunrise in the plains will be immediate, but sunrise in the mountains may be delayed depending on the elevation of the peaks. Same for sunset. 

Use google map to your advantage! 3-4 months prior to a trip, I use google maps to locate barns or equine facilities that are listed on google. Pastures and outdoor arena are VERY easy to spot on google maps! From there, I can locate the business details, contact info and social media pages, reaching out to let them know I will be in the area on select days with availability for additional photoshoots.

I can research quality locations for dog shoots on the route to barns, fitting in those additional sessions for my dog clients.

Social media is great to provide your travel schedule to followers regularly, but curating an email list with past clients and those interested in your services is the best way to solidify photoshoots. If I don’t have a trip planned to requested areas of travel, I’ll offer the client the opportunity to either join my email list, and when I have 5+ clients in that area ready to book, I’ll set dates and travel plans. OR if the client prefers a more flexible a schedule, I provide a custom travel quote that will cover for a private trip to capture their photography needs ASAP.

Consider having a non refundable retainer for booking photoshoots. This ensures that your travel expenses are covered, even if the client cancels their photoshoot. I’ve flown across the country to end up being completely ghosted by a client before (and yes, I called, texted and emailed- all of which I could see were being opened and read), but I luckily had a nonrefundable retainer that ensured I only lost my time, and not additional funds for unexpectedly unnecessary travel. 

I hope these travel tips helped provide you with easier planning, an enjoyable trip, and more time behind the camera!

Want to learn more?

Hop over to the Educational side of my business to download freebies, video tutorials, photoshop tools, or to book your private mentorship or reserve a spot in the next photography workshop!

The Trick to Black vs White Background Equine Portraits

"What's the trick to creating BLACK background equine portraits, vs WHITE background equine portraits?"

Lighting. It's all about the lighting.

*To start off, I ONLY use natural lighting, no artificial lights or reflectors. I achieve this by using a fully shaded doorway to the barn, wide enough where the horse can comfortably stand parallel to the edge of the door. This is most often the aisle way or a wide doorway into an indoor arena. I then adjust my camera settings to best capture the horse, ignoring the exposure of the environment around the horse as it will be fully replaced in editing.*

Black backgrounds - you want the shadows to wrap around the horse.

Below are examples of raw images that show the shadows wrapping around the horse, and the edited versions against the more suitable black background.

White backgrounds - you want the light to wrap around the horse.

Below are examples of raw images that have light wrapping around the horse, and the edited versions against the more suitable white background.

If you have an image with DARK shadows, it's going to be VERY obvious and look out of place against a white background. Below are some examples.

Can you see the shadows wrapping in the first (raw) image? Specifically by the withers, shoulder and the tail area? Now look at the edited version against the black background - which looks much more natural, and then the white background - which doesn’t match the lighting at all. Can you see the difference?

Here’s another comparison of the lighting setup being ideal for black backgrounds. Can you see how the shadows and dark points on the horse are TOO dark and don’t match the white background? Especially near the withers, the elbow and back of the legs. Can you see the difference?

If you have an image with halo or back lighting, it's going to be VERY obvious when you place it against a black background.

Below is an example of a lighting setup that would be ideal for white backgrounds. Check out the lighting that is coming from the left of the horse, wrapping around the neck, chest, face, and legs. It’s even spilling over the croup a little too. This creates a much more pleasing white background portrait than the black.

Now if the client wants a mix of both, or doesn't know if they want a black or white background, your #1 job is to find a location that has a more balanced lighting, where you can more easily lift lighter shadows and/or control an any extra light wrapping around the horse.

OR you can photograph specific poses in a location that is more suitable to black background portraits, then shift to a new location to photograph additional poses that are more suitable for white background portraits.

So let’s talk poses.

Poses where the horse’s body is perpendicular to the edge of the door, are going to be more suitable for black background portraits, simply because the lighting naturally gets darker as you go further into the barn. (If you have my Equine Portrait Posing Guide, some of the poses that are easier to shoot as black backgrounds are, Straight Forward, Ground Stretch, Booty Pop, The Walk Away, and 45*.)

Poses where the horse is parallel to the edge of the door, are going to be easier and more pleasing to edit for white background portraits. (If you have my Equine Portrait Posing Guide, some of the poses that area easier to shoot as white backgrounds are, Profile, Full Body Shot, Bow, Tail, Curtsey and Criss Cross.)

I hope this was helpful, and that you are able to approach black and white background equine portraits with a new mindset! And don’t forget to give yourself some grace as you learn to read the lighting - it takes time to hone that skill. But - nothing can be considered a failure, as long as you are learning something new every time you try. 💕 Now go have fun with your cameras at the barn!

Want to learn more?

I offer private virtual and in person mentorships, group workshops, and downloadable courses!

Posing Guide for Photographing Horses

How you pose a horse for a portrait can make or break your photograph. Here are my best tips to set yourself up for success and elevate your photos of horses. (Images below are straight from my camera, and have not been retouched.)

1. Know the horse breed and/or riding discipline. There is a BIG difference on how you would photographing a hackney pony who drives, vs a quarter horse that dominates the western pleasure world. A big of research a head of time on the breed and/or discipline can set you up for success, but when in doubt, don’t be afraid to ask the client, as it shows you care about the details of their images.

2. Legs. Nothing makes my eyes twitch more when I see a horse standing like a drunk giraffe. Take the time to either square the horse’s hooves, park them out, or stack them as desired. If the horse won’t allow for their legs to be placed, I always prefer to see all four legs, or will capture the horse in motion, taking a step forward.

3. Elbows. When you reposition a horse, especially when asking with a turn on the forehand or haunches, step the horse back and then forward to ensure all four hooves are going the same direction. This will also ensure that elbows or hip bones aren’t popped out.

4. Weight distribution. Nobody wants a photo of their horse looking like a wet noodle blowing in the wind. Make sure the horse’s weight is balanced centered over their front hooves. This will ensure that their chest and shoulders are equally balanced in your photos too.

5. Butts. I like big butts and I can not lie! Well, actually I like round butts, and not triangular butts. Make sure your back legs are set under the hocks (or further out if breed standard calls for parking out), especially for the back leg closest to the camera. This gives the butt a rounder and more muscular appearance, vs a triangular and weak hind end.

6. Muscle Tone. Engage those muscles! This can transform your horse from a lazy couch potato into a show stopping and awe striking horse.

7. Bending. Under bent will shorten their neck, or make it appear as if they have NO neck. Over bent will stretch out the topline and turn your horse into a drunk giraffe with unbalanced weight. Learn your angles or be ready to shoot through the movement!

8. Ears up! Unless you’re getting bloopers or the horse is listening to communication coming from two different directions, those ears should be up and forward. This gives the horse the air of more confidence, desire to either connect with the viewer, or commit to the movement they are doing in the image. 

9. Details. Take a moment to fix the details before you photograph. Reposition bridle keepers, adjust the reins so their loops are even, remove the grass from the horse’s mouth, wipe off slime, clean out dirt from the nostrils, rebrush flyaway manes or forelocks, etc. etc. These seem like little things, but when your little details are in order, they will make your image go from good to GREAT!

10. Expression. This is most important, to the horse AND the owner. If your horse is showing tension or discomfort, you should not be photographing portraiture work until their needs are addressed. Focus on creating an atmosphere when your horse is comfortable and happy to engage. This will result in positive body language and expressions, making it a much more desirable image for fine art and/or sentimental portraits for your clients.

I hope this was helpful! Give yourself some grace as you learn to recognize, and either work with the horse’s behavior or find a clear way to instruct the owner to correct these horse posing details. Now go grab your camera and have fun at the barn!

Want to learn more?

I offer private virtual and in person mentorships, group workshops, and downloadable courses!

Equine Portrait Posing Guide

A step by step guide to learn my 20+ poses for fine art Equine Portraits using natural lighting.

Horse & Rider Posing Guide

A step by step guide to learn my go-to poses when photographing Horses & Rider.